Eating at T-Mobile Park these days is as much
Cracker Jack as it is Dungeness crab pizza. In this Q&A,
Seattle chef and award-winning food writer J. Kenji López-Alt maps
a game plan to bring local flavor to every inning, including with
his very own Seattle-style teriyaki pop-up.
J. Kenji López-Alt is wearing a “I <3 Teriyaki” T-shirt
underneath a Seattle Mariners jersey with his last name on the
back. As the acclaimed chef and best-selling cookbook author takes
the pitcher’s mound at T-Mobile Park, two thoughts cross his
mind.
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Eating at T-Mobile Park these days is as
much Cracker Jack as it is Dungeness crab pizza. In this Q&A,
Seattle chef and award-winning food writer J. Kenji López-Alt maps
a game plan to bring local flavor to every inning, including with
his very own Seattle-style teriyaki pop-up.
“My primary goal is not to embarrass myself in front of my
kids,” he says, jokingly. “And then my secondary goal is being
completely okay with embarrassing myself in front of my kids. I
figured there was a 50/50 chance that I’d get it somewhere near the
plate.”
Turns out, he had nothing to worry about. The ball sailed right
over, landing into the waiting glove of Mariners third base coach
Kristopher Negrón.
Cheers from the crowd naturally followed. Of course, there was
also plenty of excitement for the heat López-Alt brought to the
park that night as a culinary pro. The main point of the chef’s MLB
debut: his Teriyaki Night pop-up.
As is often the case with López-Alt’s endeavors, the event was a
hit, with tickets selling out well ahead of time and the evening
ending with many a satisfied baseball — and teriyaki — fan.
To anyone familiar with his work, his stats and bona fides in
the food world are packed. His popular books include The Food Lab,
one of two to win a prestigious James Beard Foundation award. He’s
a regular in both print and video for the New York Times, and has
some 809,000 Instagram followers and over 134,000 followers on
TikTok. And, of course, he is the creator and host of Kenji’s
Cooking Show on YouTube, where he has nearly 1.7 million YouTube
subscribers — and where he recently posted a video about his
favorite foods at T-Mobile Park, serving as a walk-up to his
Teriyaki Night event.
Here he reveals his secret sauce (somewhat literally) for the
perfect teriyaki plate, the real importance behind throwing the
first pitch and eating anything and everything at T-Mobile
Park.
Your sold-out Teriyaki Night pop-up at T-Mobile Park was huge
success. How does teriyaki fit into the world of Seattle
baseball?
I grew up in New York, and in New York, pizza is the big
democratizer, the one that everybody eats and the one that
everybody enjoys and the one that you can get. It’s like every
neighborhood has their local pizza spot and they’re all a little
different, but they’re all New York pizzas. So when I moved to
Seattle five years ago, I found that teriyaki is the Seattle
equivalent. It’s a dish that was created and is still mostly cooked
by immigrants. It’s inexpensive and filling. Every neighborhood has
its own spot. And it is really unique to Seattle: Chicken teriyaki
was invented here by a Japanese American immigrant in 1976, Toshi
Kasahara, and it’s since gone on to sort of take over the entire
area. There are over a hundred teriyaki shops in and around the
Seattle area.
I’ve been following the Mariners since I moved here in 2020, and
I love going to games. They reached out to me and asked if I’d be
interested in talking to them about teriyaki, because, despite the
wide range of food options available at T-Mobile Park, they’d never
done teriyaki. It felt like it was time to add it to the menu. It’s
a hometown dish for the hometown team.
What does your Major League twist on the local dish look
like?
Of course, rice and chicken teriyaki with sauce. People could
get hot sauce if they wanted to make it spicy for themselves, but
it’s not spicy by default. And then a little salad of pickles,
daikon and carrots, which is not the traditional accompaniment to
teriyaki. Traditionally teriyaki in Seattle would come with either
a cabbage salad or an iceberg salad that’s served cold. But because
we serve teriyaki hot and ready to go, it didn’t make sense to
include warm wilted iceberg. So we went with a pickled carrot and
daikon salad instead. I think it goes really nicely with the
teriyaki. It’s tangy, a little bit sweet, crunchy. A nice contrast
to the chicken.
What’s the strategy that you would recommend for people
coming to see a Mariners game and wanting to try out some great
local food?
I mean, there are so many choices and a lot of them are really
amazing. I have two little kids, and so usually when I go to a
game, it’s with a couple of other parents and all their kids, and
we'll divide and conquer. We'll each take a little different
section and pick up a few different things and then bring it all
back to our seats, and then we'll all just share everything.
You recently posted a video where you pretty much ate your
way through T-Mobile Park. What are some foods that people can get
at T-Mobile Park that you think really represent Seattle
cuisine?
T-Mobile Park offers a lot of foods that are just a mesh of
various cultures and cuisines. It is, I think, actually quite a
good cross section of the immigrant community in Seattle and the
types of food that have developed here and have taken root
here.
There’s a very big Japanese influence in Seattle cuisine, so
curry katsu from Tamari Bar, the teriyaki, obviously. Moto Pizza
has Detroit-style pizza, but it’s got some very personal twists as
far as the toppings and the presentation goes. You can’t really get
it anywhere else. And it’s wonderful. People waited online for it
for months when it was just a small shop, and now you can get it at
the ballpark and it’s just as good.
I also would say getting garlic fries from Ivar’s. I think most
cities that have a garlic-growing region near them have their own
version of garlic fries, but that feels like a real T-Mobile Park
staple. I think it’s amazing the quality of sushi and poke that you
can get there from Sushi Nakagawa. I never would've imagined when I
was a kid that one day I’d go to a baseball game and get really
good sushi. Seattle has a very strong seafood culture, and so
that's represented in the ballpark as well.
It's not just peanuts and Cracker Jack and hot dogs. There’s a
lot of local representation.
How was throwing the first pitch on Teriyaki Night?
I thought about it sort of the way I think about cooking a meal,
which is that not everything you cook is going to work out. But the
important thing to remember is that when you’re cooking for your
friends and family, the food is only the consolation prize. The
more important part is that you're showing this expression of
hospitality and generosity, and you’re getting your friends or your
family around a table so that you can all hang out and enjoy each
other’s company. And so I thought about throwing out the first
pitch the same way.
It's like, who really cares if the ball goes over the plate or
not? As long as everyone is there having a good time, then that’s
the more important part.
What’s next on your plate for teriyaki and the city of
Seattle?
I’m going to continue going around Seattle and trying all the
teriyaki I can and sort of celebrating it as much as I can, as a
way to get to know my new city. I think the best way to get to know
a place is to eat its food. We have had thoughts of a long-term
project, having a teriyaki festival of some kind or having
made-to-order teriyaki at T-Mobile Park. Right now, the teriyaki
that you get is from the hot and ready to go walk-off kiosks, but
having it cooked to order so that you get a more true teriyaki
experience top to bottom would be really nice. So that's something
I’d be interested in helping them develop at the park. But for now
I'm just thrilled to be part of this and to be part of the pride of
my adopted hometown.
I’ve been working on a teriyaki recipe for a long time and
refining it now that I’m in Seattle and have a new perspective on
specifically what Seattle teriyaki is. So I’m planning on releasing
both a recipe and a video showing people how they can make Seattle
style teriyaki at home sometime this summer.
Finally, the Mariners have started off the season doing
really well. What are your predictions, are we going to see a
teriyaki pop-up in October?
Hopefully we’re going to go all the way!
For more information on Magenta Status benefits at T-Mobile
Park, including information about Post Malone’s concert on June 26,
visit
https://www.mlb.com/mariners/ballpark/information/t-mobile-perks.
Follow the T-Mobile Newsroom on X and Instagram to catch the
latest company updates.
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all. T-Mobile’s customers benefit from its unmatched combination of
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that creates competition and innovation in wireless and beyond.
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